What did you do to your car today?

Well haven't had too much time to play around with the car as I have been busy with work, but I did discover a few things on it I didn't know, since it was pretty much an impulse buy haha.

Car still needs a really good clean-up but it will get it soon

-Beatup Momo Steering Wheel
-JL speakers all around and 10 sub, will be selling this soon
-Greddy Trust stainless exhaust manifold
-Chipped ECU & Dyno Tune from Autodream
-Turbosmart Boost Controller
-Apexi Air Filter
-4x ugly ass Touren 18" wheels(will make good spares)
-4x steelies
-aftermarket or different than stock spoiler and 3rd brake(not sure on brand, anyone know from the pic?)








Here is the spoiler, anyone know what this is?


Also here are the brakes, i heard some s14s have the smaller ones like s13s, mine has the larger ones, but they are not z32, just wondering if anyone knows how these cars came with these or not?



Also here is a video of what i have to deal with!! haha little knock, I am looking to source a short block, if not I will just replace the rotating assembly



Also I swapped my gauge cluster on my mustang for the nicer 6 gauge one, I gain a volt and oil pressure gauge, as well as the little computer in the corner that tells me fuel mileage,does a sys check,i can also change it to any color i want.


OLD


NEW

nguyen306 wrote:

after 5 days of trouble shooting, getting stranded a couple times, some good friends coming to the rescue, and working on it all day today. She finally runs good, hits boost, and doesnt stutter. Boost felt soooo goood

were u with corey on rochdale last night?

duggyb wrote:

Also here are the brakes, i heard some s14s have the smaller ones like s13s, mine has the larger ones, but they are not z32, just wondering if anyone knows how these cars came with these or not?

Those are the 4-piston Iron units that came on some s14's. Pretty sure they are the exact same 30mm units that came on the 1993 and up 300zx's.

Same rear wing/3rd Brake light that's on my car. It's a stock Zenki wing. I believe it is just a somewhat rare option .

brakes are s14 K's oem brakes.

KABOOM!!!

I crashed my car last night, Was going to merge onto the highway towards albert st. from pasqua street. Thought the merge ramp was a gradual turn but it ended up being a 90 degree right hander and i was going about 60km/h so i understeered right off into the ditch. my lower rad support and wheels hit a light pole that was lying down just off the shoulder. Just the lower rad support is bent, i thought my driver front wheel and oil pan were going to be fucked but its all ok.

that is shitty....its going to take you for ever to pay your parents back after fixing this.

bogan wrote:

that is shitty....its going to take you for ever to pay your parents back after fixing this.

fixing it? i never said that. i just pulled it apart to see if it was really bad. everything still functions ok so i just put the car back together, drives fine...

probably can bend that back pretty easily

EVOXXX wrote:

probably can bend that back pretty easily

im not sure, its pretty crushed. ill just replace it.

ive got some chains, we can bend that back no problem.

by the looks of it, you could use a deadblow hammer to straighten it, and then just re-spot weld it and itd be good as new

wired my fan switch into the glove box. tightened up my heat wrap on the header for the 3rd time, stupid ruts in the roads keep breaking my hose clamps clear off.

abs0Lut wrote:

wired my fan switch into the glove box. tightened up my heat wrap on the header for the 3rd time, stupid ruts in the roads keep breaking my hose clamps clear off.

thats why you use actual heat wrap ties, 1-2$ a piece at queen city performance.

or place the threaded tighteners at an angle where they canot be ground off by the ruts.
and why is the switch wired to a switch? is it just an override for a temperature switch? What fans are you using, and what is their amp draw? Did you choose to use a circuit breaker or fuse for them? what size and where did you get the relay for them?

Bjohnson wrote:

I crashed my car last night, Was going to merge onto the highway towards albert st. from pasqua street. Thought the merge ramp was a gradual turn but it ended up being a 90 degree right hander and i was going about 60km/h so i understeered right off into the ditch. ]

I'm trying to visualize which corner you are talking about, I think it's this one?




Also, that piece doesn't look very complicated at all, It's just thin steel tacked to the frame rails. If your going to have to break the welds on it and weld a new piece on, you might as well have someone like Marshal who is good with a welder, whip you up a nice one off tubular cro-moly lower rad support. Would just need pads/cups welded onto it to hold the rads legs.

why stop there, lets reinforce the entire chassis.

yes Heretic that is exactly where it was, and i'd rather just replace it with the oem piece (as long as i can get it) so its just a weld in application and i dont have the wait time of taking measurements and designing&fabbing it all up.

Marshal. wrote:

why stop there, lets reinforce the entire chassis.

Yup, time to front half that car.


Yeah you can order that right from the dealer. We changed a damaged subframe/control arm mounts. (weld in) on an EP3, and it was actually pretty reasonable for the part. Like $230 or so.


I drive that corner every single day, it's actually a nice set of curves. BMW has just enough power to slide to ass around it, if you toss it in hard and get on it. And then has no acceleration for the merge onto hwy 11 *sigh*

240sxy wrote:

abs0Lut wrote:

wired my fan switch into the glove box. tightened up my heat wrap on the header for the 3rd time, stupid ruts in the roads keep breaking my hose clamps clear off.

thats why you use actual heat wrap ties, 1-2$ a piece at queen city performance.

You trying to say that those "actual heat wrap ties" are stronger than a normal hose clamp? lol. Anything of that sort is going to break when scraped across concrete with 2000lbs on top of it.

Marshal. wrote:

or place the threaded tighteners at an angle where they canot be ground off by the ruts.
and why is the switch wired to a switch? is it just an override for a temperature switch? What fans are you using, and what is their amp draw? Did you choose to use a circuit breaker or fuse for them? what size and where did you get the relay for them?

My header is easily the lowest part in the car and damn near center under the engine, I have learned that I can't have any heat wrap under the engine so now it only goes as far as the bend where the pipes would go under the engine. I am really not worried about the whole heat factor, I just wanted to hide my ebay header a bit. =)

As far as the fan goes it's a 12v Mishimoto slim fan hooked straight up to the battery, with a simple on/off switch to cut the power. for what ever reason(I haven't looked into it really-other than checking fuses lol) the factory switch would never kick them in, this was just a simple and non-permanent fix.

ok good, that fan will quickly burn up the contacts on that switch.

I was in the market for an electric one, but none seemed to flow enough for me, as I wanted to set it up as a puller and pull heat out of the engine bay. All except the taurus/SHO fans, but those things draw 70A while running, and thats just unacceptable.

the switch is made for 24v heavy duty machines, I'm not too worried about it lol.

its generally a good idea to run a relay + inline fuse with an electric fan. i've seen first hand what can happen without

abs0Lut wrote:

the switch is made for 24v heavy duty machines, I'm not too worried about it lol.

Are you familiar with Ohm's law? the reason we use more voltage on a system is to reduce the current, or amperage thus reducing the required size of the wiring, or your "heavy duty equipment" would all be running around with 6 gauge wiring for everything, that load draws. So a load opperating at 12V will require double the amperage of that idenical load opperating at 24V to accomplish the same work. So when you say its used on 24V systems, that would mean it is rated for even less amperage. Ever wonder why we have 595V in places? Switches are made for control voltage, not to actually turn a load on and off. Amperage is what will burn out wires and your contacts of the switch, not voltage, it could be rated for eleventy million volts, dont matter.

Hooking it up to a relay also reduces the length of large diameter wire that must be run to cope with the large amp draw the fan will draw. Depending on the amp draw of the fan, you would have to have run pretty lard diamete wires, while with a relay, your entire control side of the circuit could be very small wire, and only have the load side require the larger stuff.
Its made for heavy duty machines you say?Probably controlling heavy-duty thing? That means its only opperating a relay, not the actual load itself. 9.9/10 times a primary control switch never operates a high-draw load, in any circumstance on any application. and that .1 time, it does, its becasue someone wired it incorrectly or unknowningly.

Hook it up to a relay, and especially a fuse or better yet a circuit breaker, or find out what can and most likely will happen.