Fiberglass

Who here has done fiberglassing work and where did you get your materials from besides can-tire?
I need a fiberglass roller and some mat and maybe if they have a good deal on resin. I'm to lazy to call or go places right now.

I just finished fiberglassing up the grill on my car. I really hate working with it, and I got my materials from my garage.
Princess Auto has a kit that has everything for pretty cheap(its in the hand-tool section). They also have the fiberglass mat somewhere else in that store. Other than that though, I don't know any small shops off hand that would have any.
How much materials are you looking for(are you coverign a sub box?)

or go to auto electric they are good at helping out

ya. I need a little bass when it hits spring and still want hatch space and my spare. So I'm fiberglassing a tub to fit in my spare tire, the sub I'm looking at is a cheapy that for sealed only needs .3 so I'm good there. Might go ported and copy another guys design he's the one that gave me the idea.

I will post picks when it gets going better. Right now I hate working with it and stupid air bubbles increase my time when doing this.

Good thing about this is it will easily be removed if I decide to try autox sometime, the amp will stay in it.

Well off to Princess Auto before work. If not then Auto Electric tomorrow.

Marshal wrote:

I just finished fiberglassing up the grill on my car. I really hate working with it, and I got my materials from my garage.
Princess Auto has a kit that has everything for pretty cheap(its in the hand-tool section). They also have the fiberglass mat somewhere else in that store. Other than that though, I don't know any small shops off hand that would have any.
How much materials are you looking for(are you coverign a sub box?)

Remember when we got our plastic sheets. I sware I remember seeing rolls of fiberglass mat.

EP304 wrote:

ya. I need a little bass when it hits spring and still want hatch space and my spare. So I'm fiberglassing a tub to fit in my spare tire, the sub I'm looking at is a cheapy that for sealed only needs .3 so I'm good there. Might go ported and copy another guys design he's the one that gave me the idea.

I will post picks when it gets going better. Right now I hate working with it and stupid air bubbles increase my time when doing this.

Good thing about this is it will easily be removed if I decide to try autox sometime, the amp will stay in it.

Well off to Princess Auto before work. If not then Auto Electric tomorrow.

make a frame for the sub to sit on out of wood. grab some fleece, spread it over your structure and staple it down. spread on some resin and apply body filler after it dries.

ta da.

pm me if you need help.

I thought of that way but It is gonna be flat so I'm using mdf anyways heres what its going to look like. this is part way through



and finished without grill



Nothing fancy or anything crazy just a little to add to the music.

good idea, and that definatley needs a grill for that sub, or your trunk/hatch becomes useless.

I've done that before. very nice work. not the funest thing to work with.

Here is the guys all finished


Looks stock to me

A++ on a super clean job!

If you do this, build one for me too! I'l pay you for your materials and labour!

RyanR wrote:

If you do this, build one for me too! I'l pay you for your materials and labour!

Well my first one sucked and I managed to rip it out from the wheel and took out my anger with a sledge hammer.

I started all over again going slow this time and I have no bubbles in my first layer so all looks good so far.

The guy used a Dayton 10HO sub.
I'm planing to try a cheap elemental sub and amp combo and hear what it sounds like.

If all turns out I will try and make another one.

I have no idea since the box will be taller the floor comes up so I can put the amp on one side, so it needs to mounted to a board with fans for cooling. How do I run the fans just from the power to the amp or what?

I will be using power pole connectors to quickly disconnect the sub if I have have to remove it also.

With the whole package deal and wiring it will be 462 plus shipping. That is the sub there.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=34

thats sick, wheres the amp mounted?

hook the fans up to GROUND(-) and the REMOTE WIRE(+). That way they only come on when the amp is on. No drained batteries, no switches to forget to turn on or off. This is the way I did it when I mounted my amp upsidedown, and it ran cooler than it did when it was mounted "properly"

This will be a slow project lol. I bought the fans and shit but not the stereo stuff. I found something else I'm saving for a cybernation turbo kit from this guy he told me he is not selling for a while so hopefully I will have enough money in a few months, only 1400.00 more to go.

On the side I know a decent amount but can never figure what the trim really means, it is a 60 trim what in normal language does that mean. Is it the size of the compressor? Is it okay to assume that bigger is better in some ways. Its a turbonetics T3/T4 I do believe.

Wheel trim topic coverage

Trim is a common term used when talking about or describing turbochargers. For example, you may hear someone say "I have a GT2871R ' 56 Trim ' turbocharger. What is 'Trim?' Trim is a term to express the relationship between the inducer* and exducer* of both turbine and compressor wheels. More accurately, it is an area ratio.

* The inducer diameter is defined as the diameter where the air enters the wheel, whereas the exducer diameter is defined as the diameter where the air exits the wheel.

Based on aerodynamics and air entry paths, the inducer for a compressor wheel is the smaller diameter. For turbine wheels, the inducer it is the larger diameter (see Figure 1.)




hope that helps u out