Help and Advice from the Car Buffs

So went to go drive my civic yesterday and well..... It was total garbage, the car idles fine and smooth albeit loud due to no exhaust but otherwise its all good. with the stock shitty rad Im having problems keeping it cool enough. Here are my issues.

Car jerks alot when engaging and once driving it revs quite a bit but isnt really going anywhere, this leads me to believe its the clutch slipping like a bitch which would be weird considering it was perfectly fine when I installed it but is this what it sounds like to you? Im not having any of the sounds or smells asscociated with a slipping clutch it just isnt really moving.

Another problem car will start everytime then randomly die out and not start back up, seems to happen most when ECT temp is over 200 degrees farenheit which is a little to hot. But i cant confirm this is only time it happens, and its not throwing a single code at all.

Would the coolant sensor reading to hot not allow the car to start but not throw any codes?

Car is cold today so im going to try driving it again and see if I can make heads or tails of these problems

Well went out to start it today and barely started and kept dying out.

Checked compression a nice 180 across the board
Checked fuel, got plenty of that
Pulled plugs no signs of running lean almost looks like running to rich.

the only thing that has stayed consistantly shitty the entire time is my wiring, but my problems are so different and shit and not consistant enough its hard to pin point

If anyone has an OBD1 integra or civic wiring harness id love to buy it if its in good condition and cheap

for the "clutch slipping" issue.
you need to watch your tach to see if the revs actually do go up and you dont go anywhere. couldnt understand what you were trying to say.
but even if it looked fine, you couldve installed it with some greasy fingers as well.

are you running on a stock ecu? does the condition of your o2 sensor matter on your setup? depening on how your ecu works, if the water temp is spiking hot, it could be richening your a/f mixture.

for bucking while engaging check your tps sensor, and make sure when you installed your throttle cable it went on properly and not too tight.

dying out part, if your plugs are dusty black already and theyre new, chances are your throwing too much fuel at it and its choking out, which is why is has a hard start because the plugs are wet and trying to ignite. It could be a number of things, I would check for vaccum leaks first, thats always the easiest, then move onto pulling your fuel rail. prime the system and if fuel spits out you have a problem.

the not starting thing could be those super awesome Honda main relays...
a combination of a bad TPS and bad spark plugs was causing my car to be jerky. If you're fowling the plugs from excess fuel, that would make sense.

EF_guy wrote:

If you're fowling the plugs from excess fuel, that would make sense.

Hey no beaks !

Heretic wrote:

EF_guy wrote:

If you're fowling the plugs from excess fuel, that would make sense.

Hey no beaks !

Heretic, turning a serious topic into shit.... again.

Heretic wrote:

EF_guy wrote:

If you're fowling the plugs from excess fuel, that would make sense.

Hey no beaks !

Oh, I see what you did there.

240sxy wrote:

for the "clutch slipping" issue.
you need to watch your tach to see if the revs actually do go up and you dont go anywhere. couldnt understand what you were trying to say.
but even if it looked fine, you couldve installed it with some greasy fingers as well.

are you running on a stock ecu? does the condition of your o2 sensor matter on your setup? depening on how your ecu works, if the water temp is spiking hot, it could be richening your a/f mixture.

for bucking while engaging check your tps sensor, and make sure when you installed your throttle cable it went on properly and not too tight.

dying out part, if your plugs are dusty black already and theyre new, chances are your throwing too much fuel at it and its choking out, which is why is has a hard start because the plugs are wet and trying to ignite. It could be a number of things, I would check for vaccum leaks first, thats always the easiest, then move onto pulling your fuel rail. prime the system and if fuel spits out you have a problem.

ya clutch slipping is least of my worries ill know more when I can drive the damn thing haha

ECU is a Hondata with a professional basemap for my setup, albeit not gonna be perfect it should get it running normally. TPS Is good and so is throttle cable both very smooth checked with the computer plugged in just to make sure.

I agree with your fuel advice when I pulled the plugs it seems like its running to rich, im gonna gap my plugs see what that does, fuel rail is new and injectors are brand new and dont leak ( i pulled the rail and primed it with the injectors in it and no leaks)


I have heard of coolant temp sensors failing and causing it to spit more fuel in but that happens when it reads to cold. Mine seems to be operating fine.

Im going to gap the plugs and check my timing to see if it skipped a tooth, than I will see where that gets me

Also If anyone can give me serious answers not these fuckin duck pictures as I try things if someones advice is what fixes it I will buy them there favorite alcohol (cause alcohol is always that bartering tool with cars)

Update,


dried the sparkplugs and cleaned em up a bit, reinstalled them and car started again but still obvs running rich and sputtering,n but started when spark plugs dry and cleaner

when i plug in the laptop to datalog at idle a bit it says i need an increase in certain areas to reach target lambda but thatd make me run ever richer no? and obvs thats aproblem

what fuel pressure are you running? I had to turn mine down when i swapped my injectors over.

vac leaks? double check everything air related

Sleypr wrote:

what fuel pressure are you running? I had to turn mine down when i swapped my injectors over.

just running stock 42 psi I could turn it down tho

Well ok, Trying to diagnose a car over the internet isn't that much fun, but lets start with the engine revving and the car not moving.

When you installed known good clutch are you 100% sure you lined up the dowel pins to their respected holes in the pressure plate? If not then the pressure plate would have been torqued down against them and that will hold the pressure plate up more then enough that the car will not move, or barely move with massive clutch slip.

Wouldn't really smell though, as there is essentially not enough clamping force to make the disc that hot.

Ya, thats gonna be my last thing to diagnose though, im almost positive I installed it correctly but of course theres the chance I didnt, but first i need to get it running good and smoothly and then try to drive it again, cause right now its to hard to diagnose something with a million other problems going on.

Hoping to have my exhaust and wideband installed this week, If anyone is good with tuning and understands all the perimeters etc I would be more than happy to supply the beer if such a person could come help me out.

so figured most of my problem out,

running dirty rich.

Cut back the fuel in my cells associated with idle and she ran alot better. Prob need to still reduce the duty of my injectors tho as its still calling for alot of fuel to be cut.

If anyone is good with this sorta thing and is free on a weekend or weeknight or something, Ill supply the beer and what not and just need a fresh sharp mind to take a look

You should just put a manual fuel regulator on and cut the pressure by 5lbs to start and see how it runs.

Click link, this is where I got mine.

Spec Tuning

I have a manual fuel pressure regulator but I also have 650cc injectors

Moneypits wrote:

I also have 650cc injectors

Wtf for?

Is this for that LS/Vtec? Half that injector size would be lots! That could be causing you some grief, it will idle a lot nicer with smaller injectors at a moderate pulse width and higher fuel pressure, then the vice versa with big injectors trimmed right out and at low fuel pressure.

Heretic wrote:

Is this for that LS/Vtec? Half that injector size would be lots! That could be causing you some grief, it will idle a lot nicer with smaller injectors at a moderate pulse width and higher fuel pressure, then the vice versa with big injectors trimmed right out and at low fuel pressure.

true that, well said!

Heretic wrote:

Is this for that LS/Vtec? Half that injector size would be lots! That could be causing you some grief, it will idle a lot nicer with smaller injectors at a moderate pulse width and higher fuel pressure, then the vice versa with big injectors trimmed right out and at low fuel pressure.

ya LS/Vtec and O i completely agree just for saturated injectors it was cheaper to go with the Precision 650cc than the 440cc injectors, In theory tho I should be able to run it with 650cc cut the duty way down but still run a moderate fuel pressure, fuel pressure is set to 40 right now.

Taylor has a set of stock injectors Im gonna run in it and see if I can notice a difference, if not tossing in the 650's and playin with it

chuck the 650 now, buy proper sized injectors and save yourself the headache

dont you realistically need only max 440's on your n/a anyways?

240sxy wrote:

chuck the 650 now, buy proper sized injectors and save yourself the headache

dont you realistically need only max 440's on your n/a anyways?

course just why pay more? 650cc will still work just as you can dial down 1100cc ones to work.

Yes realistically I shouldve gone with 440cc's but im not about to toss 300+ worth of injectors out.

and at the time Ionly had stock ones that failed on my turbo car so I wasnt about to put those back in

yeah
but in the end, was the money you saved worth the headache yet?

240sxy wrote:

yeah
but in the end, was the money you saved worth the headache yet?

CONGRATS you are no fuckin help at all yes in hindsight it was a mistake cool but whats done is done hence looking for solutions. It is obviously possible to have these 650cc injectors work perfectly fine.

Was looking for peoples advice as to how much % wise to use for my fuel cut and such info like that